I am two weeks late….but here for your weekend literary pleasure is a little ditty about the day that most of France spends standing over a BBQ somewhere in the south as the Tour de France commentators scream out orders from the telly while a tiny minority remain in Paris battling the increasingly prevalent American Tourists as an even tinier man stands on his Flamenco heels sans Carlita at the Place de La Concorde saluting men in the most feminine army uniforms seen outside the Vatican.
Or Bastille Day.
The 14th of July 2011 marked 222 years since a bunch of greasy garlicky Gallic revolutionaries did the unthinkable and rebelled against their God-Given King (and his very fashionable if Austrian wife) and blew up a prison in the trendy and fashionable 4th arrondissement of Paris. Presumably they went to the trouble of razing their king’s favourite prison to make way for a gay dance party 222 years later.
The 14th July in Paris is a pretty calm affair. Sarko stands up (even though we all judge him to still be sitting down) to salute the soldiers mincing their way down the Champs Elysees followed by a fleet of scarily pointy phalluses guised as missile launchers while some very Top Gunny planes fly over La Tour and scare the pants off of anyone over 60 who can actually remember the German invasion. The whole thing has a very “Tom Cruise slash gay or maybe that is the same thing anyway” kind of feel about it.
The large majority of those clinging to the guard rails along the Champs are the immediate family of the visiting international soldiers taking photos of their dads/brothers/sons dancing semi-naked in the middle of the most famous street in Paris while wearing a grass skirt and poking out their tongues. In no way related to the gay references of the preceding paragraph, this year’s guests were from French Polynesia so we were treated to the unexpected spectacle of a version of the Haka played out if front of the trembling Sarko. A trembling Sarko who was no doubt wishing the Amazon Carlita and her expanding belly were present to protect him from any loud bangs should he blow over.
Barely anyone attends the parade itself because it starts at 9am on a public holiday. Anyone in Paris under 50 is sound asleep in front of their toilet (or if they were lucky, under a fireman) after spending the night at the annual Fireman’s Ball guzzling cheap Champagne with the pompiers. The Fireman’s Ball is a drink and fireman fuelled party that occurs on the eve of Bastille Day in fire stations across the country that is surely a more essential tradition for France to export than kissing people in greeting?
It may also be because French people don’t care as much about being French as Americans care about being American, or Australians care about being Australian or any of the other new world nations care about being a new world nation. French people, in my experience of them, are not so proud of their national heritage since they kind of handed it over to the man with the little moustache and the big voice a few years back. There is a sense of nonchalance about their patrimony and everyone outside France seems more impressed with France than they are themselves.
Out in the New World, we are obliged to be proud, bang our drums and wave our flags to distinguish ourselves from Mother England and the assumption that we are a smaller lesser version of her greatness and by the way did I mention that AN AUSTRALIAN WON THE TOUR DE FRANCE! Not that I am a patriot, just proud it wasn’t a pom who took the title.
After the pansy parade and the hangover, everyone gets ready for the “fireworks!” The fireworks in inverted commas are more a homage to real fireworks. They have fire, they do work, there are some explosions, they are pretty good, but they are a reminder of fireworks, leaving you hungry for the real thing.
The fireworks are launched from the Trocadero, across the river from the Eiffel Tower rather than launched off of the Eiffel Tower. I am told this is because it would be too hard to climb up and install them or find anyone qualified to do it or maybe no one really cares enough to try?